Glistarka - pl. glistarkes

«Κάλεσμα σε γάμο με γλισταρκάν« <br/> Πηγή: Έργο μαθητών Ε'1 τάξης του Γ' Δημοτικού Σχολείου Αγλαντζιάς

«Κάλεσμα σε γάμο με γλισταρκάν« Πηγή: Έργο μαθητών Ε'1 τάξης του Γ' Δημοτικού Σχολείου Αγλαντζιάς

«Κάλεσμα σε γάμο με γλισταρκάν« <br/> Πηγή: Έργο μαθητών Ε'1 τάξης του Γ' Δημοτικού Σχολείου Αγλαντζιάς

The characteristic of glistarkes is their round shape and the multiple intersections of dough strips. The way in which the strips are interlaced is often reminiscent of weaving of textiles or baskets.

Name - Origin
Cypriot name of food
Γλισταρκά. Glistarká.
Greek name - description

It is a kind of crispy bun (Kypri 1983 [2003²], entry γλυσταρκά,η, 251), a kind of rusk (Giangoullis 2009, entry γλισταρκά - γυρισταρκά - χρισταρκά,η, 124).

They were large and thin buns. Inside the bun were thin strings of dough in various designs (Kypri - Protopapa 2003, 282). The specific cylindrical strips of dough, with sesame seeds, forming various shapes, were baked in the oven to become crispy (Petrou-Poeitou 2013, entry Γλισταρκές-κλισταρκές, 38 and entry Κλισταρκές, 60).

This type of bun was prepared on the eve of a wedding or during the Christmas holidays (Yangoullis 2009, entry γλισταρκά - γυρισταρκά - χρισταρκά,η, 124).

Language remarks

Eugenia Petrou Poeitou points out that when these preparations were made for Christmas, they were called klistarkes from chrystaries. But perhaps they also get their name from the turning around of the dough rolls, which is why they are also called gyristaries (Petrou-Poeitou 2013, entry Γλισταρκέςκλισταρκές, 38 and entry Κλισταρκές, 60). Elias Georgiou in his publication «Ιστορία και λαογραφικά της Αλάμπρας» (History and Folklore of Alambra) states that the name gyristarка probably comes from the verb gyrizo (go around), since they used to offer the buns while going around the village to invite guests to a wedding (Georgiou 1989, 67).

Processing method

The dough was always firm and kneaded with flour or semolina. Sugar, peanut oil, mastic and cinnamon were added to the dough. After the dough was shaped, they were rolled in sesame seeds (often mixed with nigela seeds and aniseed). They were twice baked to become rusks (Kypri - Protopapa 2003, 282-283)

Each glystarka weighed 200-300 drams. Its shape was round and had a cross-shaped diameters (Kypri 1983 [2003²], entry γλυσταρκά,η, 251). The designs given to the glystarka were numerous, the most common being the kantz̆elloti, arvaloti, phinikoti, stavroti and loxi (Kypri - Protopapa 2003, 282).

For the preparation of glistarkes for a wedding, on Wednesday before the wedding, five young girls would symbolically start the sourdough starter and on the following day they would knead many glistarkes. This preparation required many hours of work and the families of the future couple would invite women to help with this particular task. They would first make the basic structure with a relatively thick bun, and then add thin strings of dough to fill the loop of the bun in a criss-cross pattern. At the end, they would place a round (dough) cord, which was called 'the root of the palm-tree' to cover completelyl the edges of thin strings of dough, otherwise the bride would be insulted if there was any hole in the bun. Throughout the whole process they would sing wedding songs. Then, they would load the glystarkes on a horse inside syriszes and invite the all the people in the village on Thursday before the wedding. In other villages the glistarka was more simple. They would make a bun and then cross it with thinner strings of dough, three vertical and three horizontal strips (Protopapa 2005, vol. A, 228-229).

Nutritional Value and Importance in the Diet of Cypriots

Glystarka was an indispensable kind of bun for households, especially in Mesaoria. Glystarkes were also prepared for women labourers, especially in the cotton sector (Kypri - Protopapa 2003, 282, 283).

Festive Occasions

In general, they used to make glystarkes on festive days such as Christmas, Easter, the 15th of August, on weddings, births, matchmaking but also when they wanted to treat their guests (Kypri - Protopapa 2003, 283).

Glystarka had several uses in the context of marriage customs. In Ashia village, eight days after the betrothal, the groom would send the bride to be gifts in a basket, while she would send him large buns, i.e. glystarkes. In some villages, the relatives would gather to knead glystarkes for an engagement. The glystarkes were usually cut into pieces and served to guests as an accompaniment to their drinks. In some villages, they would give a whole glystarka to the relatives, the cantors and the village priest. On the day of the engagement in some villages they would give glystarkes as a gift. In Kontea village, on the day of the engagement, the mother-in-law would take glystarkes to the groom's house together with clothes. In Ashia village, we observe a variation of the custom: Eight days after the day of the engagement, the groom to be would give the bride to be nuts and brandy, and the bride to be would reciprocate by filling a basket with glystarkes and clothes for the groom to be. Just before the wedding, the bride's family needed the glystarkes for Saturday's 'sewing of the bed' custom and the groom's family needed them for the rest of the wedding days. Glystarkes were made in a wide variety of designs and were used at various stages of the wedding. The bride in some villages would give whole glystarkas as a gift to close relatives or those who had assisted in the wedding preparations. In Kapouti village, the women would take along flour for kneading and would be given two glystarkes. One glystarka with special decorations was given to the priest when he would visit the house after the wedding to bless them. In Lefkoniko and Lysi they would give one glystarka to each guest who attended the 'sewing of the bed' custom on Saturday. They would also offer glystarkes on Saturday or Monday of the wedding to the women who would offer pittes or other gifts to the couple. They would knead 150-200 glystarkes for a wedding. Glystarka was also used to decorate the walls of the house at weddings ( a proof of craftsmanship and housekeeping), but also for a blessing, since any bread was blessed by God. In Anarita, they would use three gyristarkes to decorate pasto. In some villages, such as Galini, they would prepare two beautiful glystarkes, which they would place near the newlyweds when they would be congratulated and then the newlyweds would keep them to feed their first baby so that it would speak well. In Lysi they would throw the cut glystarkes to the violinists. While decorating the pasto at Stroumbi village, they would place towels in a cross form on the wall and in between them they would place two glystarkes and small weaved baskets. In Paliometocho, they would decorate the wall with sheets and two handkerchiefs, in the middle of which they had a decorated glystarka. In Kakopetria they would hang a glystarka and to its sides, they would hang small buns which had a cross in the middle.

A different kind of glystarka was given to each family, as part of a wedding invitation. In Morphou, the groom's family would knead separately from the bride's family. In the villages of the Nicosia district, mainly in the Morphou district, each family was invited with two ornate palm tree-shaped glystarkes. If inviting a widower or a widow, they would give only one glystarkan. The glystarka for the village priest was wrapped with a pocket or head scarf or a new towel or he would be given three glystarkes. The violinists were also invited with a glystarka wrapped in a handkerchief. In Philia and Zodia they would give three glystarkes to the inlaws because they were also inviting the groom or the bride. In the other villages of Nicosia, they called with only one gyristarka, made in a simpler way. In other villages of the Nicosia and Paphos districts, they would invite with a simple type of gyristarka, called koumoullia. In some villages, they would wrap the gyristarka in a handkerchief and put a candle, while close relatives were given a big candle. In Ambelikou village, the shepherds that would bring the meat for the wedding table were given a gyristarka when invited to the wedding. In Agia Marina Skyllouras, the best man and the maid of honour would invite relatives and the godfather to a wedding offering gyristarkan. In Paliomylos the gyristarka was decorated with raisins and almonds. In the village of Polystypos glystarkes were put on a large paneri covered with a red cloth; they would go around the village holding the paneri on their heads accompanied by a violin and a tambuts̆ia. They would give one glystarka per family. In Menoiko and Akanthou, they would invite relatives with two glistarkes or one glystarka and a bun. They would sometimes carry the glystarkes on a horseback. In the villages of Mesaoria, the treat during 'the sewing of the couple's bed' custom was gyristarkes. At noon on Saturday, the women who would invite the guests and those who were working for the wedding would eat together. They could offer only nuts, bread and halloumi or gyristarkes cut in pieces (for glystarkes in wedding customs, see: Protopapa 2005, vol. A, 51, 60, 77, 80, 224-228, 265, 268, 274, 280, 301-308, 312, 431-432).

In the villages of Pitsilia, glystarka was used as an invitation to weddings together with one candle, one glystarka for each member of a family. (Kypri 1983 [2003²], entry γλυσταρκά,η, 251). In the village of Lythrodondas, glystarkes were offered as a treat to guests on the wedding day (Kypri - Protopapa 2003, 283).

'Gyristarka was offered only to the landlord, when they go around the village to invite for the wedding. They would offer ladies fingers to the rest of the family members.' (Georgiou 1989, 67)

Glystarkes were also used to treat the guests of a new mother. Glystarka was offered to those women who would visit a new mother and bring her food. In the province of Kyrenia, glystarka was given only to relatives (Protopapa 2009, 304).

Time period
19th - 21st c.
Supplementary Information

In several villages, they would decorate the glystarkes with another dough and hang them on the wall for decoration (Kypri - Protopapa 2003, 282).

Bibliography

Georgia Ch. (1989), Ιστορία και λαογραφικά της Αλάμπρας.

Kypri Th. D. (ed.) (1983 [2003²]), Materials for the compilation of a historical dictionary of the Cypriot dialect, Part B, Glossary of Xenophon P. Pharmakides, Publications of the Centre for Scientific Research, IX, Nicosia.

Kypri Th. - Protopapa K. A. (2003), Kypri Th. - Protopapa K. A. (2003), Cypriot traditional kneading of bread and pastries. Their use and significance in customary life, Publications of the Centre for Scientific Research, XVIII, Nicosia.

Petrou-Poeitou E. (2013), Where do they come from. Words and stories from the world of taste, Epiphaniou Publications, Nicosia.

Protopapa, K. (2005). Έθιμα του παραδοσιακού γάμου στην Κύπρο (traditional marriage customs in Cyprus) Publications of the Cyprus Centre for Scientific Research XLV), vols. A-B, Nicosia.

Protopapa K. (2009), Τα έθιμα της γέννησης στην παραδοσιακή κοινωνία της Κύπρου, Publications of the Centre for Scientific Research, XLIX, Nicosia.

Researcher/Recorder

Stalo Lazarou, Varvara Yangou, Demetra Dimitriou, Demetra Zannetou, Petroula Hadjittofi, Tonia Ioakim, Argyro Xenophontos