«Νωπά χαλλούμια» Πηγή: Δήμητρα Δημητρίου
Halloumi is a white Cypriot cheese made from sheep or goat milk or a mixture of the two with or without cow milk, consumed fresh or semi-mature.
Halloumi is registered as a PDO since 13/04/2021
Name - Origin
Χαλλούμι. Halloumi is a white cheese made from sheep or goat milk or a mixture of the two with or without cow milk, consumed fresh or semi-mature.
Sources which survive to date include specific references to halloumi, documenting its continuous production in Cyprus from the Middle Ages to the present day. The name is thought to derive from the Arabic khallum (Hadjioannou 1996, 214) or helime, meaning cheese.
During the period of Venetian rule and specifically in 1554, the historian Florio Bustronios states that halloumi was produced throughout the month of March and trahanas throughout the month of July. (“Li calumi per tutto Marzo. El tracana per tutto Luglio”: Grivaud 1989, 590).
A few years later, in 1563, Elias of Pesaro, a Jew who lived in Famagusta, observed that the local cheese was produced by mixing sheep, goat and cow milk (Cobham 1908, 76).
Travellers John Heyman (1720) and Richard Pococke (1738) state that halloumi was stored in oil to prevent worms from growing while it was fresh (Cobham 1908, 247, 267). Recent evidence confirms that oil would be added to noros (whey), in which halloumi was stored (Rizopoulou-Igoumenidou 2008, 'Dairy products', 3).
19th - 20th century
Milk collection for halloumi: milk was sold by households to milkmen; they would go from place to place to collect it. Many households had their own halloumi “production”; they either had their own milk or would buy it from the milkman. Those who had a few sheep and, therefore, less milk would usually partner with other households, combine their milk quantities and make halloumi. This task was usually organised by women. Making halloumi was a complicated task and required skill to have a successful outcome. They would use savoury (a herb) when boiling the milk, which would give a special smell and flavour to halloumi (Leontiou 1983, 135).
During the process of making halloumi, raw figs were sometimes added to prevent small insects called appitoúrka (Panaretou 1967). Halloumi used to be stored in a special container called kourellon or halloumokouzan. Some noros (whey) and hot olive oil or soapwort (Saponaria officinalis) would be added in the container(s) in order to preserve halloumi for a long period of time.
Functional and symbolic role
Halloumi is a traditional and common type of food, combined with bread as a snack in between meals. In the past, it was often part of the farmers' midday meal, during their break. So, the production of halloumi would not, as a rule, constitute a source of income since own consumption was extensive (Chatzionas 1971).
The monasteries on the island were famous for their cheese. Their assets, recorded in 18th century registers, included not only numerous sheep and goats, but also quantities of halloumi and dry anari grinders, since both types of cheese used to be grated over handmade pasta (Archbishop Chrysanthos (1767-1810) in the Land Codex of the Holy Archbishopric of Cyprus).
Archimandrite Kyprianos in his “History”, published in Venice in 1788, gives a panoramic view of "milk products from sheep and goats" during the same period in Cyprus: “There are many excellent types of cheese from the villages of Akanthou and Kefalon and other villages of Paphos. Salted anari and halloumi and butter in abundance were delicious. In summer, even in Nicosia and Larnaca they make sour milk (yoghurt) and other dairy products. The country exports a large quantity of cheese. The locals consume either very little or no cow milk or meat” (Archim. Kyprianos, 1788 in Rizopoulou-Igoumenidou 2008, 'Dairy products', 4).
Additional information and bibliography
In the first half of the 18th century, travellers John Heyman (1720) and Richard Pococke (1738), mention that halloumi made from goat milk is well-known and sought after in neighbouring Syria and Palestine, “the only good cheese to be found in those places” (Rizopoulou-Igoumenidou 2008, 'Dairy products').
Cypriots would prefer halloumi made from sheep and goat milk with a soft texture (Panaretos, 1967). However, shepherds who just had sheep, had to necessarily obtain goat milk as well in order to make halloumi. In the villages of Troodos mountains there were no sheep, so, only goat milk was used to make halloumi. This type of halloumi was called pourota (pl.).
Cobham C.D. (1908), Excerpta Cypria, Materials for a History of Cyprus, Cambridge.
Grivaud G. (1989), Ordine della secreta di Cipro. Florio Bustron et les institutions franco-byzantines afférentes au régime agraire de Chypre à l´époque vénitienne, Μελέται και Υπομνήματα ΙΙ, Foundation of Archbishop Makarios III, Nicosia.
Leontiou N. (ed.) (1983), Άσσια. Ζωντανές μνήμες, βαθιές ρίζες, μηνύματα επιστροφής, "Ashia" Cultural Association, Nicosia.
Mirianthopoulos K. (1949), «Ξενικαί λέξεις εν Κύπρω», Cypriot Studies IB, 113-121.
Economides S. (2004), Το γάλα και τα γαλακτοκομικά προϊόντα της Κύπρου με ιδιαίτερη αναφορά στο τυρί χαλλούμι, Cyprus Dairy Industry Organisation, Nicosia.
Panaretos A. (1967), Κυπριακή γεωργική λαογραφία, Cooperative Central Bank Ltd, Nicosia.
Rizopoulou-Igoumenidou E. (2008), «Τα γαλακτοκομικά προϊόντα στον ετήσιο κύκλο της παραδοσιακής ζωής στην Κύπρο», Η ιστορία του ελληνικού γάλακτος και των προϊόντων του (1ο Τριήμερο Εργασίας, Ξάνθη, 7-9 Οκτωβρίου 2005), Kalantzopoulos G. (ed.), Piraeus Group Cultural Foundation, Athens, 401-423.
Chatzionas S. (1971), «Το φαγητό στην Άλωνα», Λαογραφική Κύπρος 1,3, 118-121.
Hadjioannou K. (1996), Ετυμολογικό λεξικό της ομιλουμένης κυπριακής διαλέκτου. Ιστορία, ερμηνεία και φωνητική των λέξεων με τοπωνυμικό παράρτημα, Tamasos Publications, Nicosia.
Eleni Christou, Ephrosini Igoumenidou, Demetra Demetriou, Antonia Matala, Argyro Xenophontos
Χαλλούμι διακοσμημένο με ροδοπέταλα και λάσμαρι, Παστίδα Ρόδου 2014.φωτ: Βούλα Κασσάνη
Χαλλούμι στη σχάρα, 2014.φωτ: Μαρκέλλα Καλλή
Hellim, 2014φωτ: Selda Genc
Traditional Recipes
Aubergine rolls with halloumi
Aubergine rolls with a Cypriot twist - halloumi filling - baked in tomato sauce and served with traditional Cypriot pitta bread.
Traditional Recipes
Beef fillet stuffed with halloumi and wild asparagus
A contemporary dish with complex combinations and familiar flavours of the Cypriot cuisine.
Foods
Dairy products
The types of dairy products produced and consumed in the 18th century. Report of Archim. Kyprianos (1788)
Traditional Recipes
Halloumi
Halloumi (fresh and mature) has always been a traditional product of Cyprus with significant value in the lives of Cypriots, hence, the knowledge and expertise of its producers has been transferred…
Foods
Halloumi - gastronomical map of Cyprus
Halloumi production has been known in Cyprus since ancient times. A plethora of Cyprus-related written sources refer to halloumi, most evidently the manuscript of Duke Leonardo Dona, dated to 1556,…
Traditional Recipes
Halloumi cake
Halloumi cake is a modern version of halloumoti and similar to the well-known tyropitta cake, using local Cypriot flavours instead.
Traditional Recipes
Halloumopitta or halloumoti
Traditional halloumopitta (mini halloumi pies) are made by adding pieces of halloumi and spearmint to plain bread dough and are usually shaped like little round bread loaves.
Traditional Recipes
Lountza
Cyprus lountza, a type of cured ham, is widely enjoyed as part of the traditional mezé and in sandwiches. Made from pork tenderloin matured in salt, red wine and dry coriander and then smoked daily…
Foods
Pithkia - rennet
It was turned into a a special coagulating powder used in the production of halloumi and other Cyprus cheese.
Traditional Recipes
Pourekia with halloumi
Pourekia with halloumi are among the most common fried pourekia, along with pourekia with anari or cream or minced meat.
Traditional Recipes
Stuffed pork fillet
Traditional Cypriot ingredients, such as lountza, halloumi, dried figs and sausage, accompany the pork fillet in a modern dish. Stuffed pork tenderloin is a similar dish (see recipe).
Traditional Recipes
Tomatoes with halloumi
A dish with a characteristic Cypriot flavour. Halloumi is cooked and placed over slices of tomato. The recipe comes from Ipsonas, Limassol district.
Traditional Recipes
Traditional pizza - folded
A Cypriot version of pizza. Everyone’s favourite is topped with local traditional ingredients.
