Kleftikon

Η σύγχρονη εκδοχή του κλέφτικου (αρνιού) που ψήνεται σε σφραγισμένο φούρνο.

Η σύγχρονη εκδοχή του κλέφτικου (αρνιού) που ψήνεται σε σφραγισμένο φούρνο.

Η σύγχρονη εκδοχή του κλέφτικου (αρνιού) που ψήνεται σε σφραγισμένο φούρνο.

The word 'kleftikon' refers to lamb or goat meat that has been slow-cooked, usually in a sealed oven.

Name - Origin
Cypriot name of food
Κλέφτικον. Kléftikon.
Greek name - description

The word 'kleftikon' refers to lamb or goat meat that has been slow-cooked, usually in a sealed oven.

Eugenia Petrou-Poeitou notes that it is lamb, sheep, goat, beef roasted in a closed container. Preferably, the animal should be old. In the old days, when an animal was stolen, they would take stones, light a fire, put the meat over it and cover the meat with mud. They would open it after a week to eat it (Petrou-Poeitou 2013, entry Κλέφτικο, 60).

Language remarks

According to researchers (Lambrou, 2014), the name “kleftiko” came from livestock theft [klevo/kleftiko means to steal/stolen in Greek], an old custom observed throughout Cyprus among shepherds. They would roast the 'kleftiko' by opening a cavity on a hillside, lighting a fire with wood and placing carob tree branches or vine leaves on the fire. On top they would place the meat and then, they would close the hole. The meat would cook for hours. It was a soft and delicious food, which they would enjoy while sitting on stones and drinking brandy (Lambrou, 2014).

Processing method

After the animal was slaughtered, it was cut up, seasoned with salt and pepper and wrapped in carob leaves. The sheep's breast was considered to be the best cut for offto kleftiko (Xioutas 1978, 115-117).

Nutritional Value and Importance in the Diet of Cypriots

Lamb kleftiko was probably a case of " tolerated theft " in Cypriot society. Indeed, manifestations of 'tolerated theft' have been documented in most societies and are considered to constitute a form of 'food sharing' in traditional societies of both foragers and farmers (Kaplan and Gurven 2000).

The shepherds used to make kleftiko meat while they were on the mountains. Specifically, they would dig a hole on the ground, light a fire using charcoal, then place the meat in it, which they would wrap in animal skin and cover it with charcoal. The meat was cooked slowly and was called kleftiko (Ionas 2001, 146).

The inhabitants of Kythrea used to prepare the 'ofto kleftiko' in a similar way. After slaughtering, cutting and salting the meat, they would place it on carob tree leaves and put it in a hole dug on the mountain of Pentadaktylos. They would light a wood fire in the hole and then cover the hole with earth and wood so that no one would know it existed. Sometimes the meat would be placed in the traditional oven in the morning and left until the afternoon to cook, especially when the animal was old. So, the meat would become so tender and separate from the bones. The meat was eaten plain, without bread, just with onion. They would wrap any leftover meat in a cloth and place it in a basket or zembyli and hang it on a carob tree to aerate it (Petasis 1992, 254).

In the village of Xylotymvou, ofto kleftiko was made with tough sheep or goat meat. It was customary to roast kleftiko in the summer months when the animals would eat dry greens. The villagers would cut up the meat and put it in a clay pot called ttavas with a bit of water and bay leaves. Potatoes were often added in the pot and then it would be cooked in the traditional oven. The meat would become very soft and tasty. Residents and passers-by would buy kleftiko to eat it along with a drink (Kyriakou 2004, 91).

Festive Occasions

For the last 100 years, according to bibliographical sources and oral testimonies, the traditional Cyprus ofto kleftiko has been the main dish at traditional wedding feasts. In villages, tables were set up in the streets and in the courtyards of houses and schools, where guests would sit down to eat kleftiko. Today, the traditional Cypriot ofto kleftiko is mainly served in family taverns and wedding feasts in banquet halls, as well as at family tables, after long periods of fasting and on major religious festivals. (Unesco, 2019).

Symbolic uses

In modern times, kleftiko is a trademark of Cypriot culture and is available in the tourist centres of the island (Unesco, 2019).

Time period
19th - 21st c.
Bibliography

Ionas, I. (2001). Παραδοσιακά επαγγέλματα της Κύπρου Publications of the Centre for Scientific Research XXXVII, Nicosia.

Kaplan H. and Gurven M. (2005), "The natural history of human food sharing and cooperation: a review and a new multiindividual approach to the negotiation of norms" in Gintis H., Boweles S., Boyd R. and Ferh E. (eds), Moral Sentiments and Material Interests: On the Foundations of Cooperation in Economic Life, MIT Press, Massachusetts.

Kyriakou D. (2004), Το χωριό μου η Ξυλοτύμπου, A. Aloneftis Printing House, Nicosia. Lambrou, K. G., 2014, Κεφάλαια από την Ιστορία και την Κοινωνία της Αθηαίνου, IDEA Publications - Internet, Athens.

Petasis G. (1992) Η κωμόπολη της Κυθρέας: ιστορική, αρχαιολογική, πολιτιστική και λαογραφική επισκόπηση, Stelios Livadiotis Printing House, Nicosia.

Petrou-Poeitou E. (2013), Από πού κρατάει η σκούφια τους. Λέξεις και ιστορίες από τον κόσμο της γεύσης, Epiphaniou Publications, Nicosia.

Unesco (2019) Traditional Ofto Kleftiko of Cyprus, web source: unesco.org.cy/Programmes-Traditional_Ofto_Kleftiko_of_ Cyprus, EN-PROGRAMMES-04-02-03-34,EN

Xioutas P. (1978), Κυπριακή λαογραφία των ζώων. Publications of the Centre for Scientific Research, XXXVIII, Nicosia.

Researcher/Recorder

Antonia Matala, Demetra Dimitriou, Tonia Ioakim, Argyro Xenophontos